Fraser Island Central Station-day 2

Central Station Fraser Island is like no other Central Station. Formerly the headquarters of the now defunct logging enterprises, it is a glorious campground, set in rainforest, each site a clearing in the canopy of soaring poles of kauri, hoop-pine and satinay, with mosses, lianas and ferns at ground level. The area is in deep shade and has a moisty, foetid sort of atmosphere, still and peaceful except for the bird calls. Looking up, there are little pieces of blue sky with fast-scudding clouds.

On our first morning we did a couple of walks, firstly to Wanggoolba Creek. The photo shows how the water is so clear it is invisible - the pale colour is the sandy bottom of the creek.

The creek bed is edged with pretty piccabeen palms (archontophoenix cunninghamia)

In the middle of the water grows the weirdly primordial relict king fern (angiopteris evecta). I'd never seen a fern so huge, glossy and, well, primitive looking. Apparently it holds itself up with water pressure, and if cut, the stems flow like a tap.

I can't resist a good fungus photo...

We walked on further to the Pile Valley, so named because its original massive satinay (turpentine) trunks were harvested to form the piles of the Suez canal.  Those that remain are impressive enough.

In the afternoon, we explored two of Fraser's iconic freshwater "perched" lakes. These arise when an impervious organic layer forms on sand in a natural depression above the water table, and it fills with rainwater. They are stunningly clear and pristine, and are surrounded by pure fine white sand, just like everything else on Fraser. We are still finding pure fine white sand in unexpected places, three days later...

Anyway, Lake Birrabeen was first, as popular Lake Mackenzie was closed for an upgrade of its facilities. All the tour buses were diverting to lake Birrabeen, and there was quite a throng of people when we arrived. Some French, some middle eastern, lots of New Zillanders.  All milling about the shore like so many reluctant wildebeest. David and I plunged in and started hooting and splashing and drinking the water, then it was on for young and old, everybody went in. Next we went to Lake Benaroon, about half an hour's thrilling sand road driving away. It was just as beautiful, and totally deserted.  No one there but a lone musk duck.

There were these weirdly pretty sedge plants everywhere, growing in the pure, fine white sand. I'm into plants, in case you're wondering...

Here's another weird plant photo

and just one more, aerial roots on a piccabeen palm

After all that excitement it was back to camp for a steak, shiraz and bed.  Then became aware of some scuffling, scratchy little noises, quite close. Actually, very close. In fact, right in the tent. Torch. One startled marsupial rat, all big black eyes, fat rump, round ears and short tail.  I showed him the tent door, and then did the zip up, no gaps this time.