Day 19 Freycinet

There are a lot of French place names in this region of Tasmania, and it turns out this is because of the French explorer Baudin, who charted this coastline in 1803. Was that why, I wondered, there was an excellent French Patisserie, right here in Freycinet, near our campground? Which was staffed entirely smart young things speaking French (only, in some cases). For breakfast, we ordered "almond escardo" a wicked pastry, rich, sweet, crisp on the edges and moist inside. The coffee was pretty good too.

Thus fortified, we set out to explore some of the nearby beaches accessible by 4WD, with Chris and Robyn. Cape Tourville and the Friendly Beaches. So named, because the first encounter there between the European invaders and the local indigenous population was reportedly "friendly". Not to continue, sadly, as Tasmania's (and Australia's) shameful history shows. Its no wonder the locals were friendly, though, this area has abundant seafood and wildlife, and as well as being lovely to the eye it is calming to the spirit. I took some lovely photos reflecting the colours of these beaches: the vivid aquamarine of the water, the ochre of the rock lichens, the clear healthy greens of the grasses and acacias on the dunes, and the sandy, silvery tones of the wash zone.

I knew there was a reason I packed one good outfit for this trip, and the restaurant at The Edge Resort is that reason. This elegant little fine dining venue serves local seafoods, meats and wines. We had salt and pepper squid, blue-eye trevalla and seafood linguine, with a crisp Piper's Brook gewurtztraminer I had tasted while at Scottsdale, and a Freycinet chardonnay. Just as the sun was setting over Coles Bay and The Hazards, a little pademelon hopped past outside the window. You don't get that at Tetsuya's.