Monday, December 9, 2013

New Zealand trip Days 11 and 12 - Queen Charlotte's Sound

The Marlborough Sounds on the NE corner of the S Island are "drowned valleys" formed millions of years ago by the mountains sinking and allowing the ocean to flood in to the low lying areas. The most famous of these is Queen Charlotte's Sound. We wanted to tackle a portion of the iconic Queen Charlotte's track, which at 71 Km in length usually takes 3 to 5 days. But first, we had to get there from Motueka, via the Nelson winery region.


The Nelson region produces "aromatic" wines. These are described as "vibrant with a flinty backbone acting as a counterpoint to the overt fruit flavours". Well, David loved them. Me, not so much, but then I prefer light crisp delicate whites and these are not that, they are big and, well, aromatic. First stop was Himmelsfeld on the famous Moutere Hills.


No-one home but the sheep. We had 4 nights left in NZ so we aimed to visit 4 wineries and buy a bottle from each - fair enough? We did this in a properly studious manner, using the spittoons and staying sober. First bottle was pinot gris from Kahurangi Estate. Then a chardonnay from Harakeke Farm, together with some sheep's milk haloumi.


Next stop was dazzling Woollaston Estate, a $6m enterprise that showcases organic winemaking in a purpose built environmentally sensitive winery with attendant public areas that are filled with artworks and sculptures. The view from the terrace isn't half bad either. We bought a bubbly.


Final stop, for a Te Mania pinot noir was this winery, sporting a huge rugby ball woven out of grapevine prunings.


Still sober enough to drive and with our bottles stowed, we headed east towards Picton on SH 6. Passed through the Mt Richmond area where pine plantations produce the high quality, straight radiata that we see locally in Bunnings. Best in the world, they say.



The hosts at our next destination had advised a stopover en route to this little gem - the Pelorus Bridge. This little pocket of remnant forest is 18Km west of Havelock and only survived the indiscriminate logging of the 19th C because of a town planning hitch. The walks here give you a sense of what this part of NZ must have been like before we white guys got here. It is beautiful. So beautiful it stars in Peter Jackson's film Hobbit.


The canopy is so dense the forest floor is quite dark.



Traps around for stoats, weasels etc


The Pelorus River, seen here from the bridge, is limpid and blue, with steep granite sides


From Cullen Point lookout, you get a good look at the dramatic scenery of the Marlborough Sounds area.


And here is our destination, tiny Anakiwa, sitting right on the shore of the uppermost reaches of Queen Charlotte Sound. Gorgeous view, huh?


That gorgeous view was taken from right here, at the dining table of our unit at Anakiwa Backpackers.


Dinner was Anatoki salmon from the farm near Motueka, plus green lipped mussels, served with asparagus and new season chats from a roadside stall. Cream, garlic, white wine.


The next morning, 8am.


We borrowed two kayaks from hosts Shane and Tania and paddled out.


 What a pleasure it was. Calm, windless, flat. We saw a stingray undulating beneath us.


 I was even able to take a photo of this spotted shag on its perch just above the water surface. It shuffled its feet at seeing us gliding past, but didn't take off.


You may have gleaned that I had the camera on board. In its carry case, tucked under my chin inside the lifejacket. Sadly, those precautions did not save it when I lost concentration and got tipped in by a little wavelet that I allowed myself to get sideways to. This was the camera's final photo. It is a write off. From this point of the trip, all photos are from my phone...


Later in the same day, having paddled back to the hostel and changed, we headed out to walk some of Queen Charlotte's Track. We chose a 5 hour walk and booked to be picked up from Mistletoe Bay at 4pm. No mucking about then, steady walking.


The track is much more populated than the Abel Tasman and it allows mountain bikers to share. They churn it up and you have to leap out of their way at times. But the views made it all worth it.


Part of the track passes through farmland. Our destination is the little bay you can see to the right of that long peninsula sticking out into the water.


We made the pick up point with about 10 minutes to spare. Whew.


Rewarded ourselves that evening with this very special sparkly from Woollaston Estate, it went well with the haloumi salad.


Another glorious sunset. Boy, we slept well that night. 

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